by Sally & Marvin Wallis
The purpose of the Zande Put-Off is to deter all but the most
suitable Basenji owners from deciding upon a Breed which could
be the wrong one for them. Questions asked in advance can be answered
far more easily than a dog can be rehomed.
What follows is shorter than the version handed out to would-be
Puppy Purchasers but included are the salient points and topics
we feel most important. The Early Days of a Zande Puppy
can be found on another page.
GENERAL :
The Basenji is a lightly built, short-backed dog which gives the
appearance of being high on the leg compared to its length. It
has been described as a "small, deer-like animal".
It does not bark, but is not mute. It has a variety of sounds,
among them growls, chortles, yodels and crows - given in varying
volume and stages depending upon its mood. It is extremely alert
and able to let its owner know at once if anyone approaches the
house.
If you are looking for fawning affection then read no further,
a Basenji is not for you. They will love you, but on their terms
not yours, with an aloofness which has its own peculiar charm.
They are lap-dogs, provided that very early socialising has taken
place, who can out-run a surprising number of other breeds including
all but racing-trained Whippets, and can climb chain link fencing
quite easily if they so wish. For sheer variety, Basenjis are
wonderful !
CLEANLINESS :
The Basenji is basically a very clean dog and (normally) rather
easy to house-train. Running back and forth along one wall, pawing
at the door, etc., are signs that it wants to go out. It cleans
itself in a cat-like way and several dogs coming home wet and
muddy will 'group groom' each other until all are dry and clean.
There is little, if any, of the wet dog-smell of other breeds.
A puppy will often have been at least partially house-trained
before it leaves the nest.
GROOMING :
Grooming normally requires only brushing and nail trimming. Nail
trimming should be done weekly at least in order to keep the feet
neat and small with arched toes. This should be done even if the
dog is not being shown. Long nails can ultimately affect the pasterns
which is bad for the animal. Front nails need trimming more often
than those on the back feet.
A brush or 'hound glove' and nail cutters are really all that
are needed. If you show your Basenji you will develop techniques
and find items you prefer. What you are looking for is a sleek,
short coat that shines and toe-nails that are short, allowing
the neat, tight feet to have the toes arched. Brushing daily helps
and nail trimming as needed is about all save for a VERY rare
bath, after a bitch has finished her season for example, although
not even always then. Since Basenjis do not usually like water
(try taking one out in the rain and see what we mean !) this can
be quite an experience. A couple of inches of warm water in a
bathtub is enough, shampoo and THOROUGHLY rinse out all soap.
Dry and leave alone. Because Basenjis lick themselves, do not
use any preparations that can cause harm if swallowed. We prefer
to use only items that are marked "safe for Cats and/or
Puppies."
In-House DISCIPLINE :
Basenjis love furniture - thinking chairs, beds, sofas and the
hearth are for their own especial use rather than for mere people.
Unfortunately, they do (as any puppy) like to chew and this can
be rather harmful unless controlled from the start. If boredom
sets in, what is nicer than a new cushion or an arm-chair ? Our
Basenjis are fed from an early age in a crate which gives it pleasant
associations. They always travel in them and if left alone (for
human shopping expeditions, for example) it is sensible to put
the Basenji into a crate with a chew-stick or bone. It will sleep
quite happily until the owner returns. Otherwise destruction of
the home can result and thereby unhappiness for owner AND dog.
A cheap, easy toy for puppies is the inside of a kitchen-paper
or toilet roll - it saves boredom, is chewable and certainly disposable
! Our puppies leave here with a 'rabbit' made of old tights. (As
well as their favourite shank bone.)
PUNISHMENT :
Because they are very intelligent as a breed, they will 'try it
on' to see how far they can push you and get away with it. If
you let them, the next time they will try to proceed even further
along whatever line of mischief they have chosen. They can, and
must, be trained like children - punished immediately when they
do something wrong. We smack them on the hip, or a light tap on
the muzzle can be effective. It does absolutely NO GOOD to punish
them some time after the misdeed as they cannot associate the
punishment with its earlier cause. Punish immediately or not at
all.
An idea some people find effective is to make a mountain from
a molehill, and create a great fuss over a minor misdemeanour.
"WHO threw the cushions on the floor ?? BAD dogs"
- so whenever these particular Basenjis wish to be VERY wicked
- they throw cushions on the floor. We get into a great state
over torn up newspapers. So our home-pack, when punishing us for
some imagined misdemeanor, shred the Daily Telegraph.
Out-door DISCIPLINE :
NEVER punish a dog for responding to your call and returning to
you, even from some mischief. It will think the act of returning
to Master merits the punishment and this is not something you
ever want to encourage. We try to give our adult dogs at least
half an hour in the woods or fields daily, completely free of
leads or restraint. They are not the best dogs to train to return
to a whistle, though ours will, in their own good time. Basenjis
are bred in Africa as pack hunters. More than one constitutes
a pack so we are careful not to let two males off the lead at
one time. They would go over the hills and far away with incredible
speed. However, one male and the girls can be free together. It
is very important to run the household so that you, not one of
the Basenjis, is the Alpha or pack leader.
Basenjis have NO TRAFFIC SENSE. They should never be allowed off
the lead near roads and are not ideal 'town-dogs' for this reason.
MEETING OTHER DOGS OUT WALKING :
The common practice among canines when they meet is to sniff...
When you are out for a walk and meet another dog remember that
if both animals are free or both on a lead, the situation is usually
fine. If one animal is free and the other(s) on a lead, the hitched
dog can feel threatened. If you anticipate trouble, lift the Basenji
free of the ground AT ONCE, get it over your head and be prepared
to use your knee to get the other dog away. It is unlikely that
you will need to do this often, if ever. To hold a dog less than
above your head renders its tail too vulnerable and a Basenji
is proud of that tail ! We hate to say it but you WILL meet some
VERY stupid and ignorant dog-owners. We had cause to call the
police after a man rolled up his lead and belaboured our very
new Mum with the clip end when she sniffed his Spaniel. She could
have been badly hurt but the man took the attitude that no dog
was going to sniff his dog. The police sorted him out on canine
behaviour, were very supportive and that couple hasn't been seen
in our woods since.
REWARDS :
Ox-liver boiled with a clove of garlic, sliced, dried and frozen
loose, can live in the freezer compartment and a slice or two
be taken out for walks. By the time you need it, it has thawed
and makes a tasty morsel as a reward to your dog for coming back
to you. We give small pieces fed on the flat of the hand as if
we were feeding a horse so that the fingers don't go too in the
excitement ! You can keep the animal from straying too far by
calling it back to you, sometimes for praise and love, and sometimes
for liver - (no guarantees, but this system usually works well.)
WARMTH :
Basenjis are tropical animals, living in warm climes and hunting
as packs. They do suffer from the cold, but our puppies leave
here with one sweater for immediate use and one to grow into !
There are innumerable other suitable garments obtainable from
stores, Club Shows or from us. Our own younger dogs seldom wear
coats or sweaters. Outdoors in winter they are either hunting
and running or indoors by the fire, leaving it only for the briefest
trip outside.
FEEDING :
New owners are often the despair of Basenji Breeders ! It is difficult
to train them NOT to feed tidbits between meals and not to over-feed
their beloved new pet. They do NOT need a great deal but they
will look appealing and all too often that side-ways look and
that perplexed wrinkle get just what the doggie wants but does
not need. An overweight Basenji is not a healthy animal. Too much
weight puts a strain on the heart of an animal just as it does
on a human. If you love your Basenji (as we hope you will) be
cruel to be kind and exert firm discipline over its diet.
When you fetch your new owner (!) you will be given a few
days supply of dog food. This is to enable you to purchase more
of the same or, if you prefer to use a different type of food,
to introduce that gradually over a period of a week or so. If
you prefer to use some other type of food, this is fine. Just
be certain it provides a well-balanced diet for dogs. And, if
you do prefer some other brands, start with the food to which
the puppy is accustomed and gradually increase the amounts of
your preferred food whilst decreasing the amounts of the food
provided. This should cause the least upset to the animal.
A detailed history of the food given, amounts, times and additives
together with a suggested feeding programme will normally accompany
each puppy. We make sure to provide one. As your dog becomes older
you should decrease the number of feedings to two (at around 3-4
months of age or so) and when they are about six months of age
you could feed once a day. We feed even our grown dogs twice a
day, smaller meals, it gives them something to look forward to
and makes it easier to control their weight. The choice is up
to you. A teaspoon of bacon dripping (or LARD, not sunflower oil
or similar) once daily helps the coat shine.
Your goal is a fit, healthy dog with a loose, pliable skin. The
ribs should not show through the skin nor should there be a heavy
layer of fat under the skin. Try to have about 1/8th inch of fat
between the skin and the rib-bones.
UTENSILS :
Feed dishes and water pans should be strong and either stainless
steel or heavy ceramic. Aluminium pans are susceptible to a thorough
mangling by a Basenji's strong teeth - and the same thing applies
to plastic pans. Always make sure the dog has access to fresh
water although you may be surprised at how little a Basenji drinks.
It is especially important to make sure a dog who is being fed
on dried food takes in adequate liquid.
HEALTH :
Your puppy will have been dewormed at intervals before you fetch
him and will have received the first immunization. The Vet will
have signed a Certificate which you will be given, together with
recommendations for the rest of the course.
Please remember that Basenjis groom themselves like cats and that
ANY preparation used on them should be suitable for Puppies and
Cats. Some Vets are not aware of this and need to be reminded
whenever ANY sort of treatment may be necessary so as to be sure
not to harm the dog by accident.
SEASONS :
Basenji bitches normally come into season only once a year. They
can have a second season especially if they live with other bitches
who have two but this is comparatively rare although instances
are becoming more frequent. The season can last longer than with
other dogs - because it is the only one - and a very high percentage
of Basenjis come into season in autumn for a winter litter. They
have been known to adapt when imported from Australia and to change
from the 'down under' March/May Autumn to our own September/November.
Of late there have been more and more Summer or Spring litters
but these are still very much in the minority.
Ovarid, or any injection to prevent normal seasons, is definitely
contra-indicated and should never be used on Basenjis. Being once-a-year
girls, the correct dose has never been assessed and this, coupled
with a Basenji's naturally unpredictable reaction to any medication,
can cause them to miss subsequent seasons and become very irregular.
Vets unaccustomed to the Breed may recommend an injection for
the convenience of the owner, without realising the possible detriment
to the dog. Basenjis seldom, if ever, appeal to other breeds and
are so clean that their seasons cause very little inconvenience.
HERNIAS :
Basenji pups can very often have a umbilical hernia which may
not become obvious until the pup is 3 or 4 weeks old. Gentle and
frequent easing back of the fatty lump until the muscles tighten
and it eventually no longer appears is very often entirely successful.
It doesn't hurt the animal and is not to its detriment. If working
the lump back SHOULD fail, and if the owner wishes, a Vet can
surgically correct the hernia at about 5 months of age, although
the Vet may be obliged to inform the Kennel Club.
BOOKS :
One particular book has been published in the UK on Basenjis.
"Basenjis - The Barkless Dogs" by Veronica Tudor Williams,
published by Watmoughs Limited in 1954 (second edition.) This
is out of print and if you can locate a copy of this 'Veronica's
Blue Book' - or even a later edition 'The Red Book' - HANG ON
TO IT because they are getting irreplaceable !
Several American books are available through Breed Clubs, libraries,
general book sellers and suppliers of specialist 'doggie' books.
The same applies to Elspet Ford's "The Complete Basenji"
(with many photographs supplied by us).
There are other books with an introduction which relates in general
terms to Basenjis but in which, after page 7, you realise you
are reading the identical material prepared for a book on Boxers,
Retrievers or Irish Wolf-Hounds !
TROUBLE :
If things go wrong, we do beg owners to contact the Breeders first.
It may be that extra advice is needed which we are only to happy
to discuss with you. It could be - and it HAS happened but not
to us - that a pup was left to get bored and ate a brand-new three
piece suite. The new owner thought the Breeder cruel when a crate
was recommended....That poor puppy had to be re-homed in spite
of all the efforts and traveling undertaken by the breeder who
also provided a crate.
We have discovered pups of ours swapped for a hang-glider - long,
long after they left here and we thought them safe and well. Responsible
breeders do maintain an interest in their 'kids' and hate to learn
third or fourth hand of their problems.
We keep a scrap book of photos sent from time to time by our 'owners'
- and we love to be reassured that our pups are enjoying life.
CRATES :
We make no apology for coming back to this subject. IT IS NOT
CRUEL TO KEEP A BASENJI IS HIS OR HER CRATE FOR SHORT PERIODS
OF TIME. You have to travel wearing a seat belt and if your Basenji
is in a crate at least you have no worry that the animal get loose
(should you have a slight tiff with another vehicle) and cause
you (and others) more problems whilst you chase after your dog.
Fed in a crate from an early age, the pups come to relate pleasant
associations with one. A comfy blanket, a chew stick or a favourite
bone and your dog is happy whilst you go shopping. Given a choice
of a bored doggie eating your furniture for something to do whilst
you are out, or complete peace of mind that the animal is happy,
asleep and your home will remain intact, which is the sensible
decision ?
We do not, and never would, advocate keeping dogs in crates permanently
or even regularly over long periods of time. We mean the odd hour
or so when you have to leave them alone. This is especially important
in the first few weeks of your ownership. A completely new field
of discovery, new smells, no Mum, no brothers or sisters and what
is small-fry going to do ? He is going to explore and this means
he'll chew things, probably things you value ! So do carefully
consider before casting aside the idea of a crate and see if you
and your Basenji can live with all possible consequences.
SECURITY
Being surrounded by fields, sheep and horses, we have had to dog-proof
the entire garden. We cut the hawthorn hedges in half and had
4 foot high 2 inch mesh chicken wire strung on independent posts.
The hedges were allowed to grow back and the wire is invisible.
Less dense hedges have a combination of split chestnut fencing
reinforced with chicken wire. Part of the orchard around the isolation
ward (used when the bitches are in season) is surrounded by chain
link fencing, loosely strung so that the dogs will not feel secure
enough to climb it. We have also had to fence off the entire vegetable
garden because we became tired of growing vegetables for the dogs.
The puppies have been known to strip Brussel sprouts from the
stalks, eat lettuces, chew young asparagus spears and pick the
choicest raspberries. We discovered a local fencing firm who had
mis-measured several gates and we were able to buy five of them
for a fiver each - including main support post and hinges....
So long as the dogs have a large enough area with plenty to interest
them, bushes, trees and a sunny spot to lie in, they do not usually
try to escape but we have to be vigilant and watch out for gates
left open or ajar - given an invitation, any Basenji will go hunting..
FINALLY :
Basenjis need and like plenty of TLC. Love them as we do.... They
really thrive on it ! and even though they may be the ones to
choose the time of the cuddles and the attention you are permitted
to lavish upon them their affection is very rewarding. Ours have
a tendency to jump on our laps entirely at their own convenience,
disrupting reading or knitting and rearranging us for their comfort.
They will stretch the neck, indicate which ear should be scratched,
when to stop and paw our hand saying "no ! don't stop
!" should we cease attending to them. Eventually they will
sleep, and as suddenly as they came, disappear to the kitchen
and solitude. Like children they need to know they are loved.
Enjoy Each Other !
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We intend adding illustrations (photographs) to our Put-Off in due course